Lemon Curd Soufflé

Lemon Curd Soufflé

When my beloved Grandfather passed away two years ago, I remember being at the wake and feeling very overwhelmed both physically and emotionally. Sure I was there, going through the motions, but I felt more like I was floating above the room, my senses dulled to what was happening around me unable to deal with the fact that my Nonno was gone. At one point I remember looking over at my grandmother, who was sitting by herself at the front of the room near the casket, and it was as if I was seeing her for the first time after a very long time. I remember being shocked at how vulnerable and old she looked. Such a tiny woman sitting in such a big chair trying to show the world her brave face but instead looking very small and lost, it broke my heart all over again. I made a promise to myself right then that I would not let my grandmother become one of those lonely widows who quietly fades away because no one comes to see them and there is no longer someone in their lives whose needs give their days a routine and a purpose; so far I have kept that promise. I make it my priority to try and visit her once a week, though sometimes there are occasional gaps of two or three weeks because of weather, my schedule or my inability to get my act together, but the key point here is that I’m trying, and as a result I’ve connected with her in ways I never thought our relationship could go, and I’m loving every minute of it.

So that’s where I was yesterday, spending the day with the oldest member of my family and the youngest, my grandmother and my daughter, and for the occasion I made a soufflé.

The recipe came from "The Tante Marie's Cooking School Cookbook" by Mary Risley and it was my first time making something from the book. This is the third soufflé I’ve made, although I’m not quite sure why I didn’t write about the second soufflé, oh wait, I never made that one, (oops Cathy I owe you a chocolate soufflé), so this is my second soufflé and the experience wasn’t so bad, although I do need a little practice. I was a little disappointed that it didn’t rise as high as I would have liked and I’m sure that had to do with my over beating or over folding the egg whites, or something like that, but for this particular occasion the presentation wasn’t so important. I know soufflés are best when eaten warm but this one had to go to Brooklyn before it could be enjoyed and by the time it got there it was cold and had thoroughly deflated. I didn’t care though and neither did my grandmother or Ellie. We spent the afternoon leisurely dipping our spoons into the lemony goodness enjoying the tart and sweet egg-y love of it while my grandmother watched various game shows and her favorite soap “General Electrica” (General Hospital) and I chased after the bambina whose mission it was to hide every thing within her reach including several pictures, part of her lunch and all of the dogs toys. You couldn't have paid me enough to be anywhere else in the world.

From "The Tante Marie's Cooking School Cookbook" by Mary Risley

Lemon Curd Soufflé

Lemon Curd is a kind of preserve popular in England. It can be used as a filling for cakes or tarts. Here it's the base of a scrumptious dessert soufflé.

• 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) butter
• 1/2 cup sugar
• 4 egg yolks
• 1/3 cup lemon juice
• 2 tablespoons freshly grated lemon zest
• 5 egg whites
• salt

To make the lemon curd, combine the butter, 1/4 cup of the sugar, egg yolk, lemon juice and zest in a bowl set over a pan of gently simmering water. Whisk the mixture constantly until it thickens 15 to 20 minutes.

Through trial and error I have come to learn that this is what "gently simmering" generally looks like. The real "gently simmering" is a calm soothing simmer unlike the angry "gently simmering" that I have come to learn is actually known as a "rolling boil"

This is the curd just after placing it over the "gently simmering" water, as you can see it is not thick and does not stick to the spoon. bad curd!

I have this theory that the reason why cooking times vary so differently from a recipe written by a professional and what the cooking times actually are in a home cooks kitchen is because the home cook does not have the high end 40,000,000 BTU stove that most test kitchens have. Of course it's going to take me a lot longer, I don't have the power they do, and so, after standing over the stove for a lot longer than "15 to 20 minutes" I finally achieved that thick lemon curd-y goodness I love so much.

To prepare the mold, generously butter a 1-quart soufflé dish or six 1/2-cup ramekins and sprinkle the inside with sugar, shaking out the excess. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

I was feeling punchy and decided to be a bit of a rebel and use turbinado sugar to coat my mold, I thought the crunchy sweetness would be good with the soufflé--it wasn't. The soufflé was too delicate and the sugar too gritty, a bad combination for dentures ACK! My grandmothers, not mine!

When ready to serve, if the lemon curd has cooled completely gently re-warm it over a pan of simmer water just until it is warm to the touch. Combine the egg whites with a few grains of salt in a clean copper bowl and beat with a balloon whisk until the egg whites are stiff and shiny and you can turn the bowl over your head without the egg whites falling out.

You knew I just had to try turning the bowl upside down didn't you, you just knew I would do it. Guess what, Risley was right, the egg whites didn’t fall out! MH5 note: I do not own a copper bowl, I used what I had for whisking the whites; stainless steel

Whisk in the remaining 1/4 cup sugar, a tablespoon at a time, beating well after each addition. With a rubber spatula, fold one-third of the meringue mixture into the soufflé base

Here I am folding, although my folding is more awkward rather than smooth and ends up being more like a fold/stirring move rather than a smooth fluid folding move.

then fold the soufflé base back into the remaining meringue. (It is acceptable to have some white streaks showing.)

This actually went a little better; I was more graceful with the folding because the volume was greater and the batter I was folding into was lighter. it was kind of like folding lemon curd into a cloud...

Pour the soufflé mixture into the prepared mold and smooth the top with the rubber spatula.

Here is my soufflé all smooth and lemony. so pur-ty

With your thumb an inch into the mixture and your forefinger hooked on the edge of the mold, turn the mold with your other hand to make a dent all the way around the soufflé so that a cap will form when it bakes.

Ok, at the risk of sounding quite dumb, I wasn't sure what the heck Risley meant here. I guessed at what she was trying to tell me, and I think I did what she wanted, but I think I could have done the same thing by just sticking in my finger and dragging it around the mold, no?

Turn the oven down to 375 degrees and place the soufflé on the bottom shelf for 25 to 30 minutes. (Do not open the oven for 15 minutes) The soufflé is done when it has risen and is lightly browned and is firm yet soft when shaken slightly. To serve; bring the soufflé to the table and cut into it with two spoons. Serve on warm plates.

Serves 6

The only thing that causes a soufflé to fall is heat. When the soufflé mixture gets too hot (from staying in the oven too long), the eggs curdle and the soufflé falls. A soufflé always begins to fall when it is taken from the oven. That's why it must be served right away.

All soufflés can be made up to an hour ahead if the egg whites are folded into a warm soufflé base, put in the prepared dish, and the whole thing covered with a bowl, because the heat of the mixture slightly poaches the egg whites.

Written by Deb on February 24, 2005 03:24 AM