Rosca de Reyes

The hardest thing, and possibly what takes me the longest when I'm writing my blog entries is that I never know how to start them. For instance, I want to write about how I baked this Rosca de Reyes for my friend Miguel and his family for Día de los Reyes or, Three Kings Day, but I'm at a loss for how to begin. I think part of the problem is that I try to write these entries when I get home from work, which is at midnight, and by then I'm so beat, it’s hard to think, but I'll try to give it a shot.

A few years ago, I started what I hoped would turn into a tradition between myself and my friend Miguel and his family. I started baking a loaf of Pan de Muerto for them for the Mexican holiday of Día de los Muertos. I did it mainly because I wanted to try baking the bread but also because I wanted to do something nice for Miguel and his family, I'm crazy about them. The bread was a lot of fun to make and it was a hit with Miguel's parents and so a tradition was born. This year, (well, really last year now that its 2005, ) because of illness (Miguel, Ellie, me) and busy schedules (me) I never got around to making the bread, and I felt bad. I filed away the thought that somehow I would have to make it up to them but I was at a loss for what to make until a couple of weeks ago. I was flipping through all my cookbooks trying to decide on what panettone recipe I wanted to try when I came across a recipe for Rosca de Reyes. A light bulb lit up in my head and I decided right then and there that I would bake this bread for Miguel and his family. I was also secretly hoping this might even start a new tradition between me and them. I consulted with Miguel about the holiday and he told me that traditionally the bread is always served with hot chocolate, and that there is always a small doll baked into the sweet bread to symbolize the baby Jesus. The tradition states that whomever gets the slice of bread that contains the doll, is then obligated to host a dinner on Dia de la Candelaria . I grew up with the legend of La Befana and so, I was completely captivated by what Miguel was telling me. I LOVE learning about different cultural traditions and the foods associated with them and I was eager to try baking this bread.

I searched the web for some pictures of what the bread looked like just to get a general idea, and while I was at it I looked at a few recipes too. I didn't find any that really jumped out at me so I ended up going with the first recipe I came across which was from a book called Celebration Breads by Betsy Oppenneer. I've had the book for some time but have never made anything from it, so not only was this my first rosca, it was my first time with the book. The recipe was easy enough to follow, and Oppenneer gives instructions on how to make the bread using many methods (I like that), you could do it by hand, with a mixer, food processor or bread machine. I modified the recipe a little (I know, I know, how could I when this was my first time trying the recipe) mainly because I didn't have brandy (I used vanilla extract) and was out of almond extract (I used anise extract). I wasn't about to run to the store at 1 am in the rain, (the old me would have, but I'm such a worn out tired mommy now. Will you forgive me?) The biggest change I made to the recipe was in how I decorated the outside. Oppenneer doesn't show a picture, but I found her description on how to garnish the bread a little too plain. I wanted to make a pretty loaf of bread and so I tried doing my own things and winged it for a change. I used whole almonds and candied fruits to make the flowers. I wish, wish, wish, I had taken a before picture, it was soooo pretty. I liked the colors from the citron, (yes, yes! I broke down and bought some) the candied cherries and orange peel. The pattern really stood out against the cream colored background of the dough, it was really very pretty, but alas, that was lost when it baked. Don’t get me wrong, I think what I ended up with was equally pretty just not as stunningly as the other.

Had I planned this better, I would have tried to find a little porcelain doll to bake into the bread, but I didn't plan well and ended up having to make do with a plastic doll (above) that I found at the supermarket. I inserted this guy into the bread after it was baked because I wasn't keen on baking plastic into something that was going to be eaten. Miguel assured me that this method of inserting after the baking was done more often than not these days so I didn't feel too bad about not trying to be more traditional. Oppenneer also suggests using a bean as a replacement for a doll, but when I mentioned this to Miguel he sneered at me.

This was a good first try, I did have a little trouble with the dough being too soft, this made it hard to roll when it came time to shape the loaf but I refrigerated it for about 20 minutes and that seemed to help. I stuffed parchment into the hole to try and keep its shape rather than the suggested bowl. I think that made the bread bake somewhat lopsided, but oh well. I made a few real oopsey mistakes too; I let the dough rise in the fridge for 24 hours rather than the suggested 12, I had the oven on too hot when I first put the bread in, burning the tips of all the candied fruit. Oh well, this is why I keep this blog, to learn from my mistakes and not make them again next time around.

I have no idea as of this writing how this bread tasted. Miguel was supposed to call me and tell me what his parents thought of the bread but I have not yet heard from him.

Adapted from Celebration Breads by Betsy Oppenneer

makes 1 large loaf using the hand method

For The Dough

• 1 scant tablespoon or 1 (1/4 ounce) package active dry yeast
• 1 tablespoon warm water (about 110 degrees F)
• 1/2 cup milk
• 1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened
• 1/2 cup granulated sugar
• 2 tablespoons finely grated orange zest
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
• 3 large eggs
• 3 tablespoons brandy or 1 tablespoon vanilla extract

By Hand- In a large bowl, sprinkle the yeast in the water to soften. Heat the milk to 110 degrees F and add it to the yeast along with the butter, sugar, zest, salt, and 2 cups of the flour. In a small bowl, beat the eggs with the brandy and add to the yeast mixture. Beat vigorously for 2 minutes. Gradually add the remaining flour 1/4 cup at a time until incorporated. The dough will be very soft.

First Rise- put the dough in an oiled bowl and turn to coat the entire ball of dough with oil. (this was nearly impossible because the dough was so soft so I sprayed oil onto the dough surface with spritz bottle) Cover with plastic wrap and then a tightly woven towel. Let rise in the refrigerator for 8 to 12 hours.

For The Filling

• 1/2 cup granulated sugar
• 2 cups ground almonds
• 1/4 cup fresh orange juice
• 1/2 teaspoon almond extract
• large bean or tine ceramic doll

Combine the sugar, ground almonds, orange juice and almond extract. (I covered this and refrigerated it overnight since there was no instruction on what to do with it until needed)

Shape-Turn the dough onto a lightly oiled work surface and roll into a 20 by 10-inch wide rectangle. Sprinkle the filling over the upper two-thirds of the rectangle, leaving a 1/2-inch border at the top. Add the bean or doll. Fold up the bottom third of dough, then fold the upper third, to within 1/2-inch of the bottom edge. Pinch the seam to seal. Bring the ends of the roll together and carefully place on a parchment-lined or well greased baking sheet. Reshape if necessary. Grease an ovenproof bowl and place it in the center of the loaf to help the loaf keeps its shape.

Second rise- Cover with a tightly woven towel and let rise for an hour.

Preheat oven- About 10 minutes before baking, preheat oven to 375 degrees F

For The Glaze

• 1 large egg
• 1 tablespoon cold water
• Sliced almonds for garnish

Final preparation- Beat the egg with the cold water and brush over the loaf. Sprinkle liberally with sliced almonds.

Bake and cool Bake for 25 minutes until the internal temperature of the bread reaches 190 degrees F. Immediately remove the bread from the baking sheet and place on a rack to cool.

Note: This bread freezes nicely for up to 6 months. To serve, first thaw the bread, then reheat on a baking sheet or directly on the oven rack in a 375 degree F oven for 7 to 10 minutes.

Written by Deb on January 7, 2005 04:27 AM